• Tech

    Uninstall “Advanced Mac Cleaner”

    1. Stop Advanced Mac Cleaner from the Activity Monitor
    2. Delete Advanced Mac Cleaner from the Applications folder
    3. Delete Advanced Mac Cleaner from the User’s Login Items
    4. Delete the helper application from ~/Library/Application Support
      • amc
      • awc
      • Advanced Mac Cleaner
      • Mac Adware Cleaner (You will be asked to authenticate).
    5. Delete the Library files
      • Advanced Mac Cleaner
      • Mac Adware Cleaner
      • hlpramc
      • hlprawc
      • hlpramcn
      • hlpradc
      • pcvark
    6. Delete the Launch Agent files
      • adwarecleaner
      • hlpramc
      • hlprawc
    7. Then, return to the Library folder again (back arrow), and open the folder named Preferences. Locate all files containing the names Mac Adware Cleaner, adware, adwarecleaner or pcvark, and drag them to the Trash.
    8. Return to the Library folder again (back arrow), and open the folder named Logs. Locate all files containing the names Mac Adware Cleaner, hlpramc, hlprawc, and drag them to the Trash.
    9. Return to the Library folder again, and open the folder Saved Application State. Locate all folders containing the names pcvark or Mac Adware Cleaner, and drag them to the Trash.
    10. Open System Preferences > Users & Groups > select your User Account > Login Items. Select the item named Mac Adware Cleaner, and click the [-] (minus) button to delete the now nonexistent program from your Login Items.

    Or, you could try out AppCleaner from FreeMacSoft.

  • Tech

    iPhone Has Full Bars but No Internet Connection

    If an iPhone has full bars (shows 4G or LTE) and can make/receive phone calls but cannot get to the Internet (via Safari or any other IP app), then it’s a routing issue. Out of many routing issues, it MAY be that your cellular provider is having problems. BUT if all other devices (e.g. your friends and family’s) devices are working, then it is probably a routing issue with YOUR phone only.

    There are several ways to troubleshoot routing issues on your phone.
    1) Simply quit every app by swiping them away and turn your phone completely off, then back on. This will clear the cache and your phone may request the cellular provider for an alternate route.
    2) Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings. This will wipe out all network settings in addition to the network cache. Your iPhone WILL request the cellular provider for routing information as if it was new out of the box.

    Now, there is a setting that will INHIBIT the iPhone from renewing the routing information from the cell provider – Data Roaming. For some reason, if you have Data Roaming turned ON, the cache is repopulated with roaming routing information. You have to turn Data Roaming OFF while attempting the above.

  • Home Improvement

    Lutron Maestro Dimmer 3-way Crossed Wires

    If you are having trouble with the Lutron Maestro dimmer in a 3-way application, check that the two load wires (one on Brass and the other on Blue) are not crossed over.

    The LED on the master unit will not light but the load wire will be energized when the FASS is pushed in. That means the Hot wire is connected correctly to the Black screw on the master switch but the electricity is not flowing to the Load on the Black screw on the companion switch, thus there is no path to Neutral.

    The LED on the master unit will not light without a path from Hot to Neutral when you cross Brass to Blue/Blue to Brass. With a voltage tester, you’ll quickly find that the wire on the Blue screw on the companion unit is energized.

  • Automotive

    Adding an ACC Powered Equipment to a 2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo

    So, for a while, I’ve been testing out some Dashboard Cameras and iPhone chargers that utilize the Cigarette Lighter Socket in the car. When I decided to mount the equipment to the car permanently, I wanted to draw power from the car from somewhere other than the Cigarette Lighter Socket where I had to keep the ash tray open. I also wanted the power to turn on and shut off with the ignition of the vehicle.

    On the Cayenne’s two fuse box by the driver’s side and passenger side doors, there are some open sockets for factory installed options. In the vehicle manual, it should be marked “auxiliary” or “un-used”. But if you peek into the sockets, you’ll see that one side of the fuse socket will have a metal conductor. Using a voltmeter, check that you get 12V when you turn on the ignition and goes to zero when you shut off the car. If you still have something like 0.3V when you shut off the ignition, that fuse is on a timed relay from the CAN-BUS system and not a TRUE switched 12V socket. Don’t trust my photos. Each vehicle is wired differently due to the factory options available on the Cayenne. Always check and re-check with a voltmeter.

    There are two of these switched 12V fuse sockets in both fuse boxes for a total of four (4). You may use a fuse tap, a blade socket, or add-a-fuse type piggy-back to get the 12V+ from these socket. On the driver’s side fuse box, there is a hex head screw on the metal frame of the dash to supply the Ground (GND) but this is absent on the passenger side… unless you’re vehicle has been pre-configured with a grounding post for optional equipment. For those who are not so lucky, you can easily tap a hole into the metal frame to screw in a grounding post.


  • Mountain Bikes

    [Bicycle] Retrofit Post Mount Disc Brake Calipers to IS Mount Fork and Frame

    This article is kind’a out of place, but as a tinker/gear head/wrench I also fix 20~40 year old bicycles for neighbors who can’t afford a brand new $3000 war rig. I just wanted to make a quick note about IS mounting points for brake calipers – but it became a full page article.

    Last week, we found a Porsche Bike FS covered in dust in a warehouse. Sold in 1998 and originally priced at $4500MSRP (valued at $270 currently on Bike BB), this bike has a Votec frame, Votec GS front fork and Riesse rear suspension, Formula hydraulic disk brakes, SACHS grip shifters, and SACHS top/high-normal derailleurs. There was virtually no rust but everything with grease or oil in it was seized. Rather than take apart the mechanics and replace all the O-rings, I decided to bring everything to 21st century standards for easier future maintenance.

    The BIGGEST HEADACHE was MOUNTING THE BRAKE CALIPERS. During the 90s when hydraulic disc brakes were becoming popular, bike manufacturers came together and agreed on a sizing standard they called “International Standard” or “IS”. Mind you, it is not an ISO standard, so traditionally ISO countries like Japan (read Shimano) wouldn’t stick to this standard for too long.

    The measurement standard for IS mount calipers were simple but impractical. The caliper mount holes were situated perpendicular to the rotation of the wheel. It was a standard decided on a table rather than the road. You see, wheels and discs rotate, flex, and bend. The IS mounts did not allow for on-the-go adjustments for lateral shifts in bike structure.

    In comes the Post Mount standard. The caliper mount holes were set parallel to the rotation of the wheel AND the caliper base had oblong holes for lateral adjustment. This way, if the wheel or rotor deforms on the road, the rider can simply recalibrate the caliper position with one allen wrench. No adding or subtracting of washers needed.

    So how do we put a Post Mount caliper onto a IS frame? Use a 90 degree adapter of some kind? YES. Shimano, SRAM, etc. makes (made) all kinds of caliper adapters for all kinds of mounts… BUT, as less and less older bikes remain on the road, they are making less or even stopped making some of these parts. So I had to go hunting for these adapters and their spec sheets.

    The important thing to remember when using an IS to Post adapter is that: At its lowest setting (i.e. no adapter, no washers) IS was made for 160mm front rotors and 140mm rear rotors.

    The Porsche Bike FS came with 185mm front and 160mm rear rotors. The old Formula calipers were already mounted on custom machined aluminum IS mounts and had no other IS standard mounting holes on the fork/frame. That meant short of making custom aluminum parts, I had to stick with 185/160 or go bigger. I decided to stick with the rotor sizes.

    An easy mistake to make here would be to get the mounting adapters for 185 front and 160 rear – but remember, the IS standard is 160/140. This bike ALREADY HAS +25/+20 mounting holes. So the correct part to get is a ±0 IS to Post adapter. I decided to go with Shimano calipers so I got the SM-MA-F160-P/S adapter for both front and rear (SM-MA-R140-P/S does not exist and would be exactly the same as F160). By the way, SRAM is a little more scientific about this and labels their adapters by the height it adds.

    A caveat to this article is that 185mm is an old rotor standard and is hard to find. New rotors are 180mm. I have yet to see anybody sell a -5mm or any minus mounting adapter. So if this bike needed a new brake rotor in the future, then it might be time to buy a new bike… or shave the adapter down a little?