Car maintenance, cleaning, vehicular law, etc.
This tutorial applies to Porsche Cayenne Turbo models 9Y0/9YA/9YB/9Y3.
What’s so special about the Turbo?
- There are two extra steps to the process compared to the base model Cayenne.
- Takes an extra quart of oil compared to base model.
- The oil drain plug is under the first under carriage plate.
- The oil filter housing is under the front torsion bar.
Time and Difficulty
Easy but dirty
- Beginner: About 8 hrs
- DIY-er: About 4 hrs
- Pro: About 1.5 hours
I had a dashcam to install on a 2019 Cayenne Turbo. I needed a switched power source (ACC) and I thought I could pigtail off of something in the fuse box. I looked in the owner’s manual and found out that there was no fusebox on the passenger side which would have been closer to the desired dashcam position. So I went to the driver’s side and found that…
1. There is no legend or markings telling me the socket numbers
2. The fuses in the sockets don’t correspond to those in the manual
This happened on the 2008 Cayenne Turbo too. The “first year of production” models and their manuals don’t match up.
I couldn’t find a suitable switched power source anyways so I went to the fuse box under the dead-pedal. Same problem here; no markings and fuses are either missing where the manual say they should be or a fuse is in a position the manual doesn’t say there should be one.
Anyways, I made an educated guess and figured out that the middle column in the bottom row had to be “Row D” in the manual. I confirmed this by pulling the fuse from position #16 – Left headlight electronics. When I turned the ignition, a warning for “Left lo-beam…” showed up on the dash. The funny thing is the left headlight still worked without the fuse. It must be the automatic hi/lo beam sensor or some other PDLS feature unrelated to the regular lights.
So for those seeking a switched power source, you can use socket #15 and #16 (Right and Left headlight electronics). There IS enough height for piggy back adapters under the dead-pedal. If you’re using TWO piggy-back/add-a-circuit, BEWARE – the pigtail from #15 will interfere with #16. A little bit of plastic shaving/forming will be necessary. And no, you can’t flip one left-side-right either because the divider in the fusebox interferes with the piggy-back.
So, for a while, I’ve been testing out some Dashboard Cameras and iPhone chargers that utilize the Cigarette Lighter Socket in the car. When I decided to mount the equipment to the car permanently, I wanted to draw power from the car from somewhere other than the Cigarette Lighter Socket where I had to keep the ash tray open. I also wanted the power to turn on and shut off with the ignition of the vehicle.
On the Cayenne’s two fuse box by the driver’s side and passenger sideÂ doors, there are some open sockets for factory installed options. In the vehicle manual, it should be marked “auxiliary” or “un-used”. But if you peek into the sockets, you’ll see that one side of the fuse socket will have a metal conductor. Using a voltmeter, check that you get 12V when you turn on the ignition and goesÂ to zero when you shut off the car. If you still have something like 0.3V when you shut off the ignition, that fuse is on a timed relay from the CAN-BUS system and not a TRUE switched 12V socket. Don’t trust my photos.Â Each vehicle is wired differently due to the factory options available on the Cayenne. Always check and re-check with a voltmeter.
There are two of these switched 12V fuse sockets in both fuse boxes for a total of four (4). You may use a fuse tap, a blade socket, or add-a-fuse type piggy-back to get the 12V+ from these socket. On the driver’s side fuse box, there is a hex head screw on the metal frame of the dash to supply the Ground (GND) but this is absent on the passenger side… unless you’re vehicle has been pre-configured with a grounding post for optional equipment. For those who are not so lucky, you can easily tap a hole into the metal frame to screw in a grounding post.
B2aaa is not a real DTC error code. It is a placeholder value for DTC reader manufacturers. It should be labeled as “N/A” or “Unknown”, but programmers in China don’t really care.
Some notes forÂ the brake pad and rotor replacement on the 2008 CTT.
- Time – 90 min/wheel
- Technical -â˜…â˜…â˜†â˜†â˜†
- Strength – â˜…â˜…â˜…â˜…â˜…
- Dexterity -â˜…â˜…â˜…â˜†â˜†
On the 2008 Turbo (and possibly the Transsiberia) ONLY, the “big-red” calipers are the closed-top type. Therefore the brake pads cannot be removed without taking the calipers off the mounting brackets. That’s okay, because with how the car eats through the OEM rotors, you’ll want to change the rotors too. The bolt sizes are differentÂ from all other model years, so BEWARE.
The process for replacing the pads and rotors are not complicated, but is dirty and probably the heaviest parts one would encounter on aÂ DIY repair. Clean the wheel and tires before starting and prep your garage for a mess. Wear cloths you don’t mind getting dirty and have some disposable gloves ready. You will be working in the shadows of the wheel well – get good lighting.
You will have NO LUCK trying to remove the brake pad wear sensors from the old pads unless the car just rolled off the ship from Germany. Buy new ones.
You really don’t need replacement screws, bolts, or springs if your car has miles but not track/dirt time. Centric Posi Quiet pads come with the retaining clips if you’d like the visible parts to look shiny new.
There are NO RETAINING PINS because the pads are mounted from below.
There is a thin stainless steelÂ backing plate on the OEM pads. You will need to clean and re-use them. Put new brake grease between the new pads and backing plate. NO GREASE between the backing plates and the caliper.
Otherwise, the pad and rotor replacement process is the same as all other 9PA vehicles. The article at Rennlist.org is very helpful.
- Front rotor 368mm (I/C 09.9870.11)
- Rear rotor 358mm (I/C 09.98710.11)
- Front brake pads (955.351.939.63 or I/C 104.13490)
- Rear brake pads (955.352.939.64 or I/C 104.13500)
Brake wear sensors
- WheelÂ bolts: 19mm
- Front caliper bolts: 21 mm
- Rear caliper bolts:
- Front rotor screw: T47
- Rear rotor screw:
- Fron rotor to hub: 10.5Â ftlb
- Front caliper to bracket: 200 ftlb
- Rear rotor to hub: 10.5 ftlb
- Rear caliper to bracket: 133 ftlb
- Wheels to hub: 118 ftlb
- Jack & Stands
- Breaker bar (>200 ft/lb)
- Torque wrench – small (for 10.5 ft/lb)
- Torque wrench – large (for 200 ft/lb)
- Socket wrench
- 19mm deep socket
- 21mm shallow socket
- T47 bit socket
- Socket adapters (as needed)
- Brake pad spreader or Channel lock-type pliers
- Short sledge hammer
- Flat head screw driver or pry-tool
- Wheel boltÂ guide
- Zip ties or a tall bucket
- Anti-seize (aluminum)
- Brake padÂ grease
- Break cleaner