Car maintenance, cleaning, vehicular law, etc.

  • Automotive

    2019~ Porsche Cayenne Turbo Oil Change

    This tutorial applies to Porsche Cayenne Turbo models 9Y0/9YA/9YB/9Y3.

    What’s so special about the Turbo?

    • There are two extra steps to the process compared to the base model Cayenne.
    • Takes an extra quart of oil compared to base model.
    • The oil drain plug is under the first under carriage plate.
    • The oil filter housing is under the front torsion bar.
    • The drain plug and filters have been standardized with the Panamera.

    Time and Difficulty

    Easy but dirty

    • Beginner: About 8 hrs
    • DIY-er: About 4 hrs
    • Pro: About 1.5 hours

    Parts and Tools

    • New oil filter and O-ring (9A719840500)
      • Purflux is a Porsche OEM supplier
    • New oil (8+1 qt of C40 approved 0W-40 oil†; Mobil ESP X3 0W-40††)
    • 32mm filter cap socket
    • T25 socket/bit for under carriage plate
    • T30 socket/bit for torsion bar
    • T45 socket/bit for under carriage plate and drain plug
    • 7mm wrench (ratcheting box wrench recommended)
    • Torque wrench for 25 Nm (19ft-lbs) and 50 Nm (37ft-lbs)
    • Jack or ramps
    • Jackstands
    • Wheel chocks
    • Drain pan
    • Plastic bag

    C40 has superseded A40 approval without backwards compatibility in mid-2018. C40 approved engine oil is not widely available in the US as of 2019-2020.
    †† Mobil ESP X3 is labeled ESP in the North America. It is meant for vehicles equipped with diesel GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) to help with Gasoline Particulates Filtering, but North American Cayennes are not equipped with diesel – as of yet. Nevertheless, it will not harm non-diesel engines. It is most likely an attempt by VW-Audi-Porsche to standardize on an engine oil for newer vehicles.

    Optional parts and tools

    • New drain plug (M14 x 1.5mm : PAF-911-679)
      • Rein Automotive is a Porsche OEM supplier
    • New drain plug crush washer (14 x 20 x 1.5mm : N-013-849-8)
      • Fischer & Plath
    • Movers blanket or Floor creeper
    • Disposable gloves
    • Oil absorbing rags
    • Parts cleaner spray
    • Funnel

    Torque specs

    • Oil filter cap to housing 25Nm (19ft-lbs*)
    • Oil drain plug to oil pan 50Nm (37ft-lbs*) with new crush washer. 30Nm (22ft-lbs) with old crush washer.

    * There is a +/- 2Nm margin in the torque specs, therefore it is safe to say 19ft-lbs and 37ft-lbs are acceptable SAE values respectively.


    1. Warm up car for 10~15 min
    2. Engage lift mode through PCM. Turn off car.
    3. Lift car, engage parking break ((P)), chock wheels, apply jack stands
    4. Remove under carriage covers
    5. Locate the oil drain plug, place drain pan underneath. Remove drain plug and drain old oil into pan.
    Location of drain plug
    1. Pop hood
    2. Remove plastic engine cover by disengaging two metal clips at 4 & 8 o’clock. Pop cover off from 8 ball joint clips.
    3. Disengage engine oil cap housing by pressing on the clip and lifting up.
    4. Remove intake filter with housing:
      1. Loosen air intake manifold ducts by pulling towards nose of car.
      2. Loosen 7mm clamps on both turbo elbows.
      3. Pull filter housing up from two rubber grommets while pulling off the turbo elbows. The back clips are hinged. Lift up and towards front of car to remove completely.
    Air intake
    7mm clamps
    Rubber grommet
    1. Loosen oil cap to create positive air pressure, you may leave the cap loosely on top to prevent dust from getting sucked in.
    2. Remove engine side panels by disengaging 3 thin pins and 2 fat pins on each side.
    Don’t break those pins!
    1. Remove front torsion bar by removing six (6) T30 screws. Tilt bar up from the back to lift out.
    Torsion bar
    Voila! The filter cap is revealed!!
    1. When the oil stops draining from the bottom, replace oil filter
      1. Move the two turbo lines straddling the filter housing to either side.
      2. Loosen and remove oil filter cap using 32mm filter wrench
      3. Have a plastic bag ready as you pull up and remove the oil filter
      4. Inspect the area for debris. Insert new filter.
      5. Clean filter cap and replace O-ring. Lubricate the new ring with a dab of new oil.
      6. Re-install filter cap, do not cross thread. Torque to 25Nm (18ft-lbs).
    2. Install new crush washer and drain plug. Torque to 50Nm (37ft-lbs). *If re-installing the old washer that is already crushed, torque to 30Nm (22ft-lbs).
    3. Remove oil cap, add 8qt oil. Close cap. Inspect for leaks.
    4. Inspect and clean drain plug area. Re-install undercarriage plate.
    5. Re-install front torsion bar.
    6. Re-install air filter housing, air intake manifold, and turbo elbows –tighten clamps.
    7. Re-attach engine oil spout and re-install all engine covers.
    8. Remove wheel chock and jack stands. Disengage parking break, return car to flat ground
    9. Disengage lift mode through PCM
    10. Turn on car and keep it running for 10~15 min, check oil level through right cluster
    11. Top off oil if necessary. If not now, probably a few days later

    You will definitely need to add some oil later. Usually, there is burn off of the new oil and about a pint gets sucked into the new filter. You will also want to save a quart bottle of oil as the car will ask for a top off in about 5,000 miles.

  • Automotive

    2019 Cayenne Turbo fuse box confusion

    I had a dashcam to install on a 2019 Cayenne Turbo. I needed a switched power source (ACC) and I thought I could pigtail off of something in the fuse box. I looked in the owner’s manual and found out that there was no fusebox on the passenger side which would have been closer to the desired dashcam position. So I went to the driver’s side and found that…

    1. There is no legend or markings telling me the socket numbers
    2. The fuses in the sockets don’t correspond to those in the manual

    This happened on the 2008 Cayenne Turbo too. The “first year of production” models and their manuals don’t match up.

    I couldn’t find a suitable switched power source anyways so I went to the fuse box under the dead-pedal. Same problem here; no markings and fuses are either missing where the manual say they should be or a fuse is in a position the manual doesn’t say there should be one.

    Anyways, I made an educated guess and figured out that the middle column in the bottom row had to be “Row D” in the manual. I confirmed this by pulling the fuse from position #16 – Left headlight electronics. When I turned the ignition, a warning for “Left lo-beam…” showed up on the dash. The funny thing is the left headlight still worked without the fuse. It must be the automatic hi/lo beam sensor or some other PDLS feature unrelated to the regular lights.

    So for those seeking a switched power source, you can use socket #15 and #16 (Right and Left headlight electronics). There IS enough height for piggy back adapters under the dead-pedal. If you’re using TWO piggy-back/add-a-circuit, BEWARE – the pigtail from #15 will interfere with #16. A little bit of plastic shaving/forming will be necessary. And no, you can’t flip one left-side-right either because the divider in the fusebox interferes with the piggy-back.

    Good Luck!

  • Automotive

    Adding an ACC Powered Equipment to a 2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo

    So, for a while, I’ve been testing out some Dashboard Cameras and iPhone chargers that utilize the Cigarette Lighter Socket in the car. When I decided to mount the equipment to the car permanently, I wanted to draw power from the car from somewhere other than the Cigarette Lighter Socket where I had to keep the ash tray open. I also wanted the power to turn on and shut off with the ignition of the vehicle.

    On the Cayenne’s two fuse box by the driver’s side and passenger side doors, there are some open sockets for factory installed options. In the vehicle manual, it should be marked “auxiliary” or “un-used”. But if you peek into the sockets, you’ll see that one side of the fuse socket will have a metal conductor. Using a voltmeter, check that you get 12V when you turn on the ignition and goes to zero when you shut off the car. If you still have something like 0.3V when you shut off the ignition, that fuse is on a timed relay from the CAN-BUS system and not a TRUE switched 12V socket. Don’t trust my photos. Each vehicle is wired differently due to the factory options available on the Cayenne. Always check and re-check with a voltmeter.

    There are two of these switched 12V fuse sockets in both fuse boxes for a total of four (4). You may use a fuse tap, a blade socket, or add-a-fuse type piggy-back to get the 12V+ from these socket. On the driver’s side fuse box, there is a hex head screw on the metal frame of the dash to supply the Ground (GND) but this is absent on the passenger side… unless you’re vehicle has been pre-configured with a grounding post for optional equipment. For those who are not so lucky, you can easily tap a hole into the metal frame to screw in a grounding post.


  • Automotive

    DTC B2aaa

    B2aaa is not a real DTC error code. It is a placeholder value for DTC reader manufacturers. It should be labeled as “N/A” or “Unknown”, but programmers in China don’t really care.

  • Automotive

    Note: 2008 Porsche Cayenne Turbo (9PA) Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

    Some notes for the brake pad and rotor replacement on the 2008 CTT.

    • Time – 90 min/wheel
    • Technical -★★☆☆☆
    • Strength – ★★★★★
    • Dexterity -★★★☆☆

    On the 2008 Turbo (and possibly the Transsiberia) ONLY, the “big-red” calipers are the closed-top type. Therefore the brake pads cannot be removed without taking the calipers off the mounting brackets. That’s okay, because with how the car eats through the OEM rotors, you’ll want to change the rotors too. The bolt sizes are different from all other model years, so BEWARE.

    The process for replacing the pads and rotors are not complicated, but is dirty and probably the heaviest parts one would encounter on a DIY repair. Clean the wheel and tires before starting and prep your garage for a mess. Wear cloths you don’t mind getting dirty and have some disposable gloves ready. You will be working in the shadows of the wheel well – get good lighting.

    You will have NO LUCK trying to remove the brake pad wear sensors from the old pads unless the car just rolled off the ship from Germany. Buy new ones.

    You really don’t need replacement screws, bolts, or springs if your car has miles but not track/dirt time. Centric Posi Quiet pads come with the retaining clips if you’d like the visible parts to look shiny new.

    There are NO RETAINING PINS because the pads are mounted from below.

    There is a thin stainless steel backing plate on the OEM pads. You will need to clean and re-use them. Put new brake grease between the new pads and backing plate. NO GREASE between the backing plates and the caliper.

    Otherwise, the pad and rotor replacement process is the same as all other 9PA vehicles. The article at is very helpful.


    • Front rotor 368mm (I/C 09.9870.11)
    • Rear rotor 358mm (I/C 09.98710.11)

    Brake pads

    • Front brake pads (955.351.939.63 or I/C 104.13490)
    • Rear brake pads (955.352.939.64 or I/C 104.13500)

    Brake wear sensors

    • Front
    • Rear


    • Wheel bolts: 19mm
    • Front caliper bolts: 21 mm
    • Rear caliper bolts:
    • Front rotor screw: T47
    • Rear rotor screw:


    • Fron rotor to hub: 10.5 ftlb
    • Front caliper to bracket: 200 ftlb
    • Rear rotor to hub: 10.5 ftlb
    • Rear caliper to bracket: 133 ftlb
    • Wheels to hub: 118 ftlb


    • Jack & Stands
    • Breaker bar (>200 ft/lb)
    • Torque wrench – small (for 10.5 ft/lb)
    • Torque wrench – large (for 200 ft/lb)
    • Socket wrench
    • 19mm deep socket
    • 21mm shallow socket
    • T47 bit socket
    • Socket adapters (as needed)
    • Brake pad spreader or Channel lock-type pliers
    • Short sledge hammer
    • Flat head screw driver or pry-tool
    • Wheel bolt guide
    • Zip ties or a tall bucket
    • Anti-seize (aluminum)
    • Brake pad grease
    • Break cleaner
    • WD-40